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From some years, the realization of new active ingredients for cosmetic applications through biotechnology is under development.
Important biological processes are carried out today, to manufacture actives ingredient for cosmetic use.
As an emblematic example from this category of advanced products we can mention the active ingredients with stimulating functions (biologically obtained from the cellular walls of mushrooms, mould, yeast) like Hyaluronic Acid and other glycosaminoglycan.
In the following article we shall be discussing one of these bio-derivatives proposed by our company and of particular interest for the cosmetic industry, HYDROSIDE AG, an Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, carried by our HYDRAGIV BP, Betaine PCA salt.
Hyaluronic Acid is an anionic no sulfate glycosaminoglycan distributed widely throughout, connective, epithelial, and neural tissue.
Its molecular weight often reaching the millions.
Hyaluronic Acid is also a major component of the skin, where it is involved in tissue repair.
When skin is exposed to excessive UVB rays, it becomes inflamed and the cells in the dermis stop producing as much Hyaluronic Acid, and increase the rate of its degradation. Hyaluronic Acid degradation products then accumulate in the skin after UV exposure.
Hyaluronic Acid is a polymer of disaccharides, themselves composed of D-Glucuronic acid and D-N-Acetylglucosamine, linked via alternating β-1,4 and β-1,3 glycosides’ bonds. Hyaluronic Acid can be 25,000 disaccharide repeats in length. Polymers of Hyaluronic Acid can range in size from 5,000 to 20,000,000 Da in vivo. The average molecular weight in human synovial fluid is 3−4 million Da, and Hyaluronic Acid purified from human umbilical cord is 3,140,000 Da.
By enzymatic reaction, we manufacture an Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid with very low molecular weight.
This particular product, opportunely carried by a Natural Betaine-PCA salt (HYDRAGIV BP), has demonstrating very interesting properties vs. cellulitis problems and dry skin.

Properties
Thanks to its particular composition, HYDROSIDE AG owns very interesting activities.
The use in cosmetics of molecularly integral Hyaluronic Acid is limited because of its high molecular weight, their inability to penetrate the epidermis barrier and its very high price. The only exception being for Hyaluronic Acid for therapeutic reasons.
Hyaluronic acid is probably enzymatically destroyed in its own constituents (disaccharide or tetrasaccharide unit) and only after being destroyed can it be absorbed through the superficial layers of the epidermis.
Clinical and application experiments have confirmed that very low molecular weight Hyaluronic Acid content in HYDROSIDE AG, thanks to the greater Trans-epidermis penetration of the simpler and lighter molecular weight compound structure, are able to perform interesting biological functions, some of which are very suitable for use in cosmetics.
From a cosmetic point of view, HYDROSIDE AG is attributed the particular function of moisturizing when carried out eminently at derma level. This moisturizing action helps to create greater elasticity and tone of the skin, effects that are measurable through palpation. Other noticeable effects are the reduction of wrinkles, the elimination of fine network superficial wrinkles and the attenuation of skin stripping and typical difficulties of some stages of cellulitis.
The improvement of the interaction between vessels and the interstice is also a property of HYDROSIDE AG, an action on dry and senescent skins, that appear smoother and more turgid.
Even the consistency is more homogenous and elastic. The mechanism of action of the eutrophic and restitution effects is strictly correlated to the indirect action performed by the HYDROSIDE AG on the motility of the smaller blood vessels.
It could also be said that with age the quantity of hyaluronic acid decreases. This variation causes the modification of the biochemistry that is responsible for skin moisturizing (which decreases).
It is in fact known that, the polymeric chains of hyaluronic acid are the ones that bond with the majority of the interstice water.
HYDROSIDE AG, thanks to the presence of Natural Betaine and PCA (NMF constituent), allow to decrease the water loss of epidermis, in aged skin by water-bond on derma.
HYDROSIDE AG make the best of these activities, giving safe and real response to the Cellulitis problems. 

HYDROSIDE AG and Cellulitis
Cellulitis is a condition whose origins are still not quite clear. Its difficult scientific name is “edematofibrosclerotic panniculuspathy”.
We should distinguish between cellulitis and localized fat: the later, in fact, is nothing more than an increase in number and volume of the adipocytes, that is the adipose cells localized in the deepest layer of the skin, the hypoderm. This increase is caused in most cases by excesses in a person eating habits (a healthy diet and an increase in physical activity is usually enough to balance and normalize the depth of the fat).
Cellulitis is different however: it is a real dysfunction that afflicts not just the hypoderm, but also the layers above which in turn causes.
Cellulitis concern micro-vascular motility and the increase in the micro-vascular motility on the derma, favored by the cutaneous application of a O/W emulsion containing 5% of HYDROSIDE AG, allow positive variations on skin micro veins and, therefore the speed of transfer of the emetic mass into the time frame, improving the moisturizing of the tissues and the consequently dissolution of cellulitis adipocytes.

HYDROSIDE AG and Reparation Process
Clinical tests performed on the reparation processes have confirmed that Hyaluronic Acid, when infiltrated locally, carries out a marked action that favors the development of the granulation tissue in pathological solutions of the skin. The HYDROSIDE AG has a very similar effect, thanks to its very low molecular weight and its carrier properties, given by the presence of Natural Betaine and PCA, even with topical application of a product containing 3% of it.
HYDROSIDE AG really increases, through a specific carrying mechanism of Natural Betaine, the capability to reach the deepest cellular layers of the epidermis, acting as a powerful physiological penetration factor.

HYDROSIDE AG activity
Powerful moisturizer, stimulating the intradermal biosynthesis of deepest layers of the derma and improves the bonding capability of water to the connective tissue.
Favors blood circulation without provoking phenomenon of pre-capillary level vasodilatation Increases the skin elasticity which appears toned and moisturized.
Normalizes the blood flow in the cutaneous micro-circulation through its micro-vascular motility properties.
Increases the epidermal permeability.

APPLICATIONS
Creams for dry, aging, wrinkly skin (anti-aging) facial masks, eye creams, hand creams, shock cosmetic treatment with boosted action in the treatment of cellulitis.
Use level between 0,5 to 5%.

TOXICOLOGICAL DATA
HYDROSIDE AG consists of a combination of well-established cosmetic raw materials and is generally
considered to present no special hazards. Safety data sheet with complete information is available on
request.